Dad's Winter 2008 Road Trip.
 Victorian antebellumed. |
 . . . architecture. |
 Boyfriend Robert joins in. |
 Captain Gregory, colorful service. |
 . . . for pretty sunrise . . . |
biscuit and hot sauce, $8.05, enjoyed with leftover Pinot Grigio) I learned both could get done right here in Ocala, a midstate Florida town overgrown with a multitude of shopping malls spread out along 4 exits of interstate highway featuring oranges on oversize billboards. The Verizon place was typical, though the manager seemed overdressed. I got my 25% (premium customer) discount. Sears was a ways off with a deserted parking field between the main merchandise building and the auto center, and a confusing array of tree-lined access drives. The 20 cubic toot carrier was $210 installed, and there were extras, air filter and radiator flush. I said ok. New wipers, too. With all the time, I sat with George at the edge of it, by the adjoining natural area in ruins. A Christian college took up the lease and the whole place will be torn down this Summer for campus expansion. 
Some while down the road, it occurred to me, shopping missions accomplished, what need to stay overnight in Tallahassee? I took a quick unreflective left turn on a state road into the panhandle. Soon, I felt right at home, crossing the Suwannee, so close to Fargo GA and the Okefenokee, my favorite swamp (photos soon). No repeats this trip, so I hadn't considered it. Passed up a number of interesting places along the way ("Camping on the river, Seafood restaurant, etc."). Come dark I was hungry. Went right through a good-size crossroads town, and didn't find a place till I was clear out the other side. Oyster stew, hush puppies and ice tea unsweet. Good. They told me how to get back to town (Hampton or budget?) for a motel.
or maybe it's a Jewish thing. Here, it's "ahss tea," sweet or "unsweet." "Thank YEW!" "Ha YEW?" (strong emphasis), "Jes fahn."
First learned this in grad school in Virgina, where it works better not to sound New York. Vocabulary is local and speech patterns are extended, not clipped or economical. When I say, "Today Ah'd laaak the steak with eggs, over easy, if Ah may, with your grits." And she says, "What to drink?" I say, "You can bring me some coffee. Thaaanks." And I take a seat. Later, "Would you bring me the check. Thaaanks." ($13.53 with tax and tip.) Practice makes perfect. Work your ear. Soon you're talking like a native.
Perry has 50,000 on the old coast highway with a paper mill. I enjoyed extending my stay with desk work at the motel, post office, shopping drugs, a bookstore for local writing on the Suwannee and other rivers nearby, and Indians, (native Americans). Election signs say, "Pray before you vote," with a verse from Timothy. Held off leaving for lunch at the Oyster House. Oyster stew again (yum), swamp cabbage (hearts of palm), saltines, with ahssed tea, unsweet. Andrea's Mom and Dad bought the place seven years ago from a lady who started it 40 years before. Boyfriend Robert chucks oysters with an old jig. Andrea helps. After I admired it standing in the corner and asked her what it was, she got out the old "pogo stick" (she called it) and played it for me with music from a tape player. About five feet high with a worn drum, triangle, numerous bells, and more besides. Robert joined in. The original owner made it that many years ago, and they take it out, play it weekend nights Karaoke. 
Sopchoppy was nice with an oldtimey IGA and an antique store with a to die for 9x12 real oriental cheap I didn't have room for. That's when you phoned. I had booked Ochlockonee River State Park for a week. Looked good on paper, a pine-palmetto stand in a half-million acres of state-federal land on the Gulf. Reality was I'd be camping by some ugly RV's too far from the john. Ranger worked out the reservation cancellation, lots of talk about big forests nearby. But I near froze that night and my heart wasn't in it. Up before dawn I followed the Gulf beach developments out, breakfasted at Apalachacola (a 20's relic) and rest-stopped at a Southern Plantation. At Destin, raw new, with literally every merchandise, food, and accommodation marketing name represented in some flamboyant paperthin architectural style, I got out North for the interstate.
My unscheduled visit to the French Quarter was fun, the goal being Oysters Rockerfeller and a good chablis at Antoine's. Texas architect with family and Brit couple from Birmingham in Jackson Square. Chatted, took each other's snaps. Still raining but not as hard. Bad directions five times over. Antoine's not open for lunch, but Lola's down the street. A reasonable substitute. Chicken gumbo (okra, tomato, sausage, must try) and corn bread. Oysters their way (nice, really) and an Edna Valley Sauv Blanc. Gregory, my captain. $74.63 including tax and tip. Police barricades along Canal Street and folks lining up already for the Mardi Gras. From the elevated highway, buildings in the poorer sections still with torn siding and roofs, boarded openings from Katrina.
 Toulouse Street . . . |
 . . . easy parking. |
 Jackson Square. |
 Jackson . . . |
 . . . mimes. |
 Spanish church. |
 French Quarter. |
 French . . . |
. . . architecture. |
 Jazz and pizza. |
 Restaurant row. |
 Antoine's for Oysters Rockerfeller! |
 Sorry. Closed for lunch. |
 Lola's down the street. |
 Stylish. |
 Chicken gumbo. Yum. |
 Captain Gregory. |
 Oysters their way. OK! |
Captain Gregory, colorful service. |
 Ihop breakfast. |
 Dad in New Orleans. |
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A Personal Potpourri.
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